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Abietic acid (also known as abietinic acid or sylvic acid), A yellowish resinous powder, C19H29COOH, isolated from rosin and used in lacquers, varnishes, and soaps. Obtained from pine rosin. Used as a texturizer in soaps. a resin acid, is the primary irritant in pine, isolated from rosin (via isomerization). It is soluble in alcohols, acetone, and ethers. It is used in lacquers, varnishes, and soaps, and for the analysis of resins and the preparation of metal resinates. Abietic acid is a weak contact allergen (a substance, such as pollen, that causes an allergy) , however compounds resulting of its oxidation by air elicit stronger response. It is the primary irritant in pine wood and resin. Abrasives The most frequently used are calcium carbonate (chalk) and, in toothpaste, di-calcium phosphate dihydrate. Absolutes Pure essential oils acquired from plants (mostly flowers) and used in products as natural fragrance additives. Absolutes are similar to essential oils and are used in aromatherapy. The difference is that where essential oils are created through a process of distillation absolutes are extracted with the use of chemical solvents. Absolutes may be more concentrated than essential oils but can sometimes contain traces of the solvents used. This is in stark contrast to the idea of purity generally associated with aromatherapy. Absolutes are more commonly used in perfumery applications, since, if both an essential oil and an absolute of the botanical exists, the absolute will be closer in aroma to the original plant. Examples of this are rose otto (steam distilled rose oil) and rose absolute or neroli (steam distilled oil from the blossom of the bitter orange tree) and Orange Blossom Absolute. Some botanicals, however, are too delicate to be steam distilled so can only yield their aroma via the process of solvent extraction. Examples of this are Jasmine and Mimosa. Acetic Acid Acetic acid, CH3CO2H, colorless liquid that has a characteristic pungent odor, boils at 118°C, and is miscible with water in all proportions; it is a weak organic carboxylic acid (see carboxyl group). Glacial acetic acid is concentrated, 99.5% pure acetic acid; it solidifies at about 17°C to a crystalline mass resembling ice. Acetic acid is the major acid in vinegar; as such, it is widely used as a food preservative and condiment. For industrial use concentrated acetic acid is prepared from the oxidation of acetaldehyde. Acetic acid is also a product in the destructive distillation of wood. It reacts with other chemicals to form numerous compounds of commercial importance. These include cellulose acetate, used in making acetate rayon, nonflammable motion-picture film, lacquers, and plastics; various inorganic salts, e.g., lead, potassium, and copper acetates; and amyl, butyl, ethyl, methyl, and propyl acetates, which are used as solvents, chiefly in certain quick-drying lacquers and cements. Amyl acetate is sometimes called banana oil because it has a characteristic banana odor. Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. Used in hair dyes and hand lotions, and in lotions for bleaching freckles. Skin irritant and toxic to lungs. Acetone Acetone, dimethyl ketone, or 2-propanone, CH3COCH3, colorless, flammable liquid. Acetone melts at −94.8°C and boils at 56.2°C. It is the simplest aliphatic ketone. Acetone is widely used in industry as a solvent for numerous organic substances and is a component of most paint and varnish removers. Used in nail polish, nail polish removers. It is excessively toxic. It is also used in the manufacture of synthetic resins and fillers, smokeless powders (e.g., cordite), and numerous other organic compounds. Acetone is produced commercially chiefly by catalytic dehydrogenation of isopropanol. Acid rinse Extremely useful for eliminating soap films from the hair after shampooing. A mixture of vinegar or lemon juice and water is a common one. Aging of Skin Although aging of skin is said to be a natural process, some of the effects are not very genuine. Dry and wrinkled skin is caused by affliction in the skin's dermal proteins (collagen, elastin and reticulin), but natural skin care can lessen this. Sun exposure is a major factor in the appearance of aging. Albumin Type of protein found in blood, egg whites, milk, fruits and vegetables. Albumin, member of a class of water-soluble, heat-coagulating proteins. Albumins are widely distributed in plant and animal tissues, e.g., ovalbumin of egg, myogen of muscle, serum albumin of blood, lactalbumin of milk, legumelin of peas, and leucosin of wheat. Separation of serum albumins from other blood proteins can be carried out by electrophoresis or by fractional precipitation with various salts. Albumins normally constitute about 55% of the plasma proteins. They adhere chemically to various substances in the blood, e.g., amino acids, and thus play a role in their transport. Albumins and other proteins of the blood aid significantly in regulating the distribution of water and maintenance of proper osmotic pressure in the body. Albumins are also used in textile printing, in the fixation of dyes, in sugar refining, and in other important processes. Alcohol A group of compounds that includes ethanol, methanol, and others.
Alkyloamides Groups of synthetic fatty acids designated as DEA, MEA, MIPA, and PEG. Used for thickening, gelling, emulsifying, emolliency, skin and hair conditioning, foam boosting, foam stabilizing, wetting, opacifying, lubricating, powder binding, skin protecting, fungicidal properties, and superfatting. Found in shampoos, bubble baths, and liquid hand and body cleansers. Harmful when contaminated by nitrosamines, and harmful to the environment. Allantoin Allantoin is a botanical extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. Allantoin helps to heal wounds and skin irritations and stimulate growth of healthy tissue. This extract can be found in anti-acne products, sun care products, and clarifying lotions because of its ability to help heal minor wounds and promote healthy skin. Its chemical formula is C4H6N4O3. It is also called 5-ureidohydantoin, glyoxyldiureide, and 5-ureidohydantoin. It is a product of oxidation of uric acid. It is a diureide of glyoxylic acid. It is a product of purine metabolism in most mammals except higher apes, and it is present in their urine. The keratolytic effect and abrasive and astringent properties of allantoin are used in skin softening cosmetic preparations. It is also frequently present in toothpaste, mouthwash, and other oral hygiene products, in shampoos, lipsticks, various cosmetic lotions and creams, and other cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Reported to have healing , soothing and anti-irritating properties. Extracted from urea, which is derived from the urine of most animals, and from herbs like comfrey or uva ursi. Alpha hydroxy acids Hydroxy Acids (AHA's) are naturally occurring carboxylic acids which are well-known for their use in the cosmetics industry. Used in toners, creams, and masks to exfoliate and moisturize the skin. Can be a skin irritant causing redness and rashes. They are often found in products claiming to reduce wrinkles, the signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin. They are also used as chemical peels available in a dermatologist's office, beauty and health spas and home kits, which usually contain a lower concentration. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Derived from natural coconut alcohols. Acts as a mild clenser. Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), CH3(CH2)10CH2OSO3NH4, is an anionic surfactant found in cosmetic and toiletry formulations, with some shampoos containing up to 30% ALS. It is most widely used in the United States. In Europe sodium laureth sulfate is used instead because ammonium lauryl sulfate gives off an ammonia odor when the pH is alkaline. The chemical can cause skin and eye irritation, and is generally only found in products that are on the skin for a short period. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, aka Ammonium Dodecyl sulfate, is simply a cheaper form of sodium Dodecyl sulfate, and has essentially equivalent properties. Contrary to the above, the laureth sulfate is used not because of the lack of ammonia odor, but rather because it is even cheaper. Antioxidants Antioxidants are chemical compounds that can bind to free oxygen radicals preventing these radicals from damaging healthy cells. Preliminary studies have suggested that antioxidants are useful in a number of ways in regards to cancer. For instance, they may improve the effectiveness of chemotherapy, decrease side effects of chemotherapy and radiotherapy, and prevent some types of cancer. Sufficient epidemiological studies have shown that ingesting foods high in antioxidants, such as fruits and vegetables, can decrease the risk of many types of cancer. Studies have also found that cancer patients have lower levels of antioxidants in their blood. The American Cancer Society suggests eating five servings of fruits a day to decrease the risk of cancer. Studies of antioxidant supplements to decrease the risk of cancer have not been conclusive. Most antioxidant research has centered around vitamins A (and its provitamin, beta-carotene), C, E (alpha-tocopherol), and the trace element selenium. While some studies have shown positive effects for antioxidants in preventing cancer, they have been conducted mostly in underfed populations or persons otherwise deficient in these antioxidants. The CARET studies in the early 1990s found that if smokers take beta-carotene and vitamin A supplements they actually increase their risk of developing lung cancer. Rather than isolated antioxidants found in supplements, it may be the combination of antioxidants found in foods that are responsible for decreasing the risk of cancer. The American Institute of Cancer Research warns that antioxidant supplements cannot substitute for whole foods. Individuals who may want to consider supplements include those who are underfed, have certain medical conditions, chronic dieters, some vegetarians, some seniors, and newborns. Concern has developed about potential negative interactions between high doses of antioxidants and chemotherapy. Anthracycline antitumor antibiotics used as chemotherapy act by creating free oxygen radicals to kill tumor cells through a process known as apoptosis. Although patients taking antioxidants may improve their tolerance to chemotherapy drugs, they may be decreasing the effectiveness of treatment and risking a recurrence of the tumor in the long run. This viewpoint is theoretical, however, and no clinical studies have as yet addressed it. Patients interested in using antioxidants during chemotherapy or radiotherapy should discuss this option with their physicians. High doses of vitamins and minerals can be toxic. The National Academy of Sciences has suggested safe upper intake levels for adults for some antioxidants. These limits are 2, 000 milligrams of vitamin C per day from both foods and supplements combined, 1, 000 milligrams of vitamin E per day, and 400 micrograms per day of selenium from both supplements and foods. It is not known how higher levels than these will affect healthy persons. Side effects of vitamin E overdose may include fatigue, intestinal cramping, breast soreness, thrombophlebitis, acne, and diarrhea, and increase in blood pressure in certain people. Blood clotting time has been shown to increase. Also, with 1, 800 IU per day, and vitamin E is antagonistic to iron and patients with anemia who are taking iron supplements should not take the two supplements at the same time. Vitamin E may also interfere with vitamin K. Selenium toxicity is characterized by dermatologic lesions; brittle hair, fragile or black fingernails, metallic taste, dizziness, and nausea. Free radicals are naturally produced in the body through the normal metabolism of amino acids and fats. These free radicals are unstable molecules that can freely react with and destroy healthy cells. They can bind to and alter the structure of DNA thus leading to mutations and eventually to cancer. Besides cancer, this oxidative stress on the cells can lead to heart, eye, and neurological diseases. Glutathione, lipoic acid, and CoQ10 are antioxidants formed naturally by the body but their levels decline with age. Vitamins C and E are necessary antioxidants but not produced by the body and must be obtained from the diet. The most common antioxidants are the vitamins A, C, and E. Additional antioxidants are natrol, found in grapes and wine; selenium; and melatonin. Flavonoids consist of a large family of antioxidant compounds found in fruits and vegetables. Among the well-studied flavonoids in terms of cancer prevention are catechins from green tea, genistein from soy, curcumin from turmeric, anthocyanosides from blueberries, and quercetin from yellow vegetables. Aromatherapy Aromatherapy, commonly associated with complementary and alternative medicine (CAM), is the use of volatile liquid plant materials, known as essential oils (EOs), and other aromatic compounds from plants to affect someone's mood or health. The word was coined in the 1920s by French chemist René Maurice Gattefossé. It is the art of using the essential (odor producing) oils from roots, barks, and herbs for treating the skin and body. Ascorbic acid Vitamin C, an essential nutrient found mainly in fruits and vegetables. The body requires it to form and maintain bones, blood vessels, and skin. Like other vitamins, ascorbic acid is an organic compound. An organic compound is a substance that (1) occurs in living things, or organisms (hence, the word "organic") and (2) contains the elements carbon and oxygen (hence, the word "compound," meaning combination of elements). Ascorbic acid is a water-soluble vitamin, one that cannot be stored by thebody except in insignificant amounts. It must be replenished daily. Ascorbic acid helps produce collagen, a protein needed to develop and maintain healthy teeth, bones, gums, cartilage, vertebrae discs, joint linings, skin and blood vessels. Ascorbic acid also does the following:
Food Sources Fruits: oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, tangerines, pears, bananas, melons, papayas, strawberries, mangos, blackberries, blueberries, kiwis, pineapples, watermelons, raspberries, cranberries, cantaloupes, rose hips, acerola cherries. Vegetables: asparagus, broccoli, green peppers, red peppers, cabbage, kale, cauliflower, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, squash, peas, turnips, turnip greens, onions, corn, pumpkins, carrots, parsley, sauerkraut. Herbs: garlic, watercress. Other sources: fish and milk (occurs in small amounts). A natural substance that is prominent in pantothenic acid. European research suggests it may be beneficial in fighting the effects of radiation exposure. It is not however, particularly valuable as a topical. BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT(butylated hydroxytoluene) Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) is a fat-soluble organic compound primarily used as an antioxidant food additive (E number E321). It also used as an antioxidant in cosmetics, pharmaceutical drugs, jet fuels, rubber and petroleum products, and embalming fluid. BHT is produced by the reaction of p-cresol with isobutylene. It was patented in 1947 and received approval of the Food and Drug Administration for use as a food additive and preservative in 1954. BHT reacts with free radicals, slowing the rate of autoxidation in food, preventing changes in the food's color, odor, and taste. In the chemical industry it is added to tetrahydrofuran and diethyl ether in order to inhibit the formation of dangerous organic peroxides. Serious concerns have been raised about the use of BHT in food products. BHT is a suspected mutagen and carcinogen. There have been cases in which some individuals have had difficulty metabolizing BHT, resulting in health and behavior changes. BHT has been banned for use in food in Japan (1958), Romania, Sweden, and Australia. The US has barred it from being used in infant foods. However some food industries have eliminated it from their products including McDonald's as of 1986. Biochemistry The learning of the chemical compounds workings that occur in living plants and animals. Biochemists study such things as the structures and physical properties of biological molecules, including proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, and nucleic acids; the mechanisms of enzyme action; the chemical regulation of metabolism; the chemistry of nutrition; the molecular basis of genetics (inheritance); the chemistry of vitamins; energy utilization in the cell; and the chemistry of the immune response. Fields closely related to biochemistry include biophysics, cell biology, and molecular biology. Biophysics applies to biology the techniques of physics. Cell biology is concerned with the organization and functioning of the individual cell. Molecular biology, a term first used in 1950, It overlaps biochemistry and is principally concerned with the molecular level of organization. The science of biochemistry has also been called physiological chemistry and biological chemistry. Biotin A colorless crystalline vitamin of the vitamin B complex, essential for the activity of many enzyme systems and found in large quantities in liver, egg yolk, milk, and yeast. It is one of the B Vitamins that assists in dermatitis and hair loss. Borates This common term refers to salts describable to boric oxide or orthoboric acid. Boric Acid Also known as acidum boricum. Used widely as an eyewash. Odorless, white, crystalline powder. It can be used around windows and doors as a bug repellent. Should not be used in baby cosmetics or baby powder. It is poisonous at doses 1-3g for babies, 5g for children and 15-20g for adults. It is , any one of the three chemical compounds, orthoboric (or boracic) acid, metaboric acid, and tetraboric (or pyroboric) acid; the term often refers simply to orthoboric acid. The acids may be thought of as hydrates of boric oxide, B2O3. Orthoboric acid, H3BO3 or B2O3·3H2O, is colorless, weakly acidic, and forms triclinic crystals. It is fairly soluble in boiling water (about 27% by weight) but less so in cold water (about 6% by weight at room temperature). When orthoboric acid is heated above 170°C it dehydrates, forming metaboric acid, HBO2 or B2O3·H2O. Metaboric acid is a white, cubic crystalline solid and is only slightly soluble in water. It melts at about 236°C, and when heated above about 300°C further dehydrates, forming tetraboric acid, H4B4O7 or B2O3·H2O. Tetraboric acid is either a vitreous solid or a white powder and is water soluble. When tetraboric or metaboric acid is dissolved it reverts largely to orthoboric acid. The major uses of the boric acids are in forming other boron compounds and in borate salts, e.g., borax. A dilute water solution of boric acid is commonly used as a mild antiseptic and eyewash. Boric acid is also used in leather manufacture, electroplating, and cosmetics. Boric acid can be crystallized from an acidified borax solution. It occurs as the mineral sassolite in the Tuscan region of Italy, where it is also recovered from hot springs and vapors. Botanical Any substance acquired from plants which has medicinal or similar uses. Bronopol Bronopol (INN) is a highly active antimicrobial chemical compound whose chemical formula is 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol. Bronopol was invented by The Boots Company PLC, Nottingham, England in the early 1960s and first applications were as a preservative for pharmaceuticals. Bronopol's low mammalian toxicity (at in-use levels) and exceptional activity against bacteria (especially the troublesome Gram-negative species) ensured that it became popular as a preservative in many consumer products such as shampoos and cosmetics. Bronopol was subsequently taken up as an effective antimicrobial in many industrial environments such as paper mills, oil exploration and production facilities, as well as cooling water disinfection plants. Pharmaceutical products containing Bronopol are registered in a number of countries and Bronopol is the subject of a specific monograph in the British Pharmacopoeia 1998. Bronopol is used in consumer products as an effective preservative agent, as well as a wide variety of industrial applications (almost any industrial water system is a potential environment for bacterial growth, leading to slime and corrosion problems - in many of these systems Bronopol can be a highly effective treatment). It is also used as a substitute for Formaldehyde in chemical toilets. The use of Bronopol in personal care products (cosmetics, toiletries) has declined since the late 1980s due to the recognised potential for nitrosamine formation. Although fairly ubiquitous in our diet and the environment, and even produced within the stomach from various foodstuffs, many nitrosamines are known or suspect carcinogens and therefore should be avoided in manufactured goods. Nitrosamines are relatively easily produced from secondary amines and amides in the presence of nitrite ions (this is why they are formed in-vivo from foodstuffs). While Bronopol is not in itself a nitrosating agent, under conditions where it decomposes (alkaline solution and/or elevated temperatures) it can liberate nitrite and low levels of formaldehyde and these decomposition products can react with any contaminant secondary amines or amides in a personal care formulation to produce significant levels of nitrosamines (due to the toxicity of thes substances, the term 'significant' means levels as low as 10s of parts per billion). Manufacturers of personal care products are therefore instructed by regulatory authorities to 'avoid the formation of nitrosamines' which might mean removing amines or amides from the formulation, removing Bronopol from a formulation, or using nitrosamine inhibitors. Toxic alcohol. It is used in fabric softeners and detergents. It is also used in face creams, shampoos, hair dressings, mascara and bath oils. It is a white crystalline powder, it can cause skin irritation at concentrations of .25%. Butyl Acetate The chemical compound n-butyl acetate, also known as 1-butyl ethanoate, is commonly used as a solvent in the production of lacquers and other products. It is a colourless flammable liquid with a sweet smell. Butyl acetate has three isomers: tert-butyl acetate, sec-butyl acetate and isobutyl acetate. Butyl Stearate A artificial chemical is found in face creams and other facial care products. A pink powder that is made of zinc oxide with a small amount of ferric oxide. It is used in lotions, ointments, and liniments. It is a customary mixture that is soothing and healing to the skin. It is great for itchy rashes such as poison ivy. It is natural but some formulas contain phenol which can cause poisoning when applied to the skin. A blend of natural calamine and aloe vera is a good pure skin treatment for burns, rashes and insect bites. Calcium Alginate Alginate have been used in various forms for fifty years, and yet they remain a poorly understood and probably underused dressing. Compared to many modern dressings, the literature is sparse and inconclusive. Nontoxic. It is used in many foods for binding. Also used as a film-former in peel-off masks. It is a stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions. Highly absorbent, biodegradable alginate dressings are derived from seaweed. They have been successfully applied to cleanse a wide variety of secreting lesions. The high absorption is achieved via strong hydrophilic gel formation This limits wound secretions and minimizes bacterial contamination. Alginate fibres trapped in a wound are readily biodegraded. Alginate dressings maintain a physiologically moist microenvironment that promotes healing and the formation of granulation tissue. Alginates can be rinsed away with saline irrigation, so removal of the dressing does not interfere with healing granulation tissue. This makes dressing changes virtually painless. Alginate dressings are very useful for moderate to heavily exudating wounds. Calcium Carbonate Calcium is the fifth most abundant element in the body. Calcium is an important structural component of bone and teeth and also is necessary for the normal function of all muscles (skeletal, heart, and smooth muscles) and nerves as well as the normal clotting of blood. Prolonged, inadequate intake of calcium causes weak bones (osteoporosis). Products containing calcium carbonate are used to increase the intake of calcium in individuals whose diets are low in calcium. The National Institutes of Health recommend 1000 to 1500 mg of calcium per day as part of a regimen to prevent the loss of bone that is associated with aging. Calcium carbonate products contain 40% calcium (absorbable calcium). Therefore, a 1500 mg tablet of calcium carbonate provides 600 mg of calcium.Natural occurring salt that is found in limestone, chalk, and marble. It is used as a pigment and for pigment prolonging. It has no known toxicity. Calcium Chloride Customarily used in road salt and antifreeze. It is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and texturizer. If taken internally, it can cause constipation and stomach problems. It can also cause lung difficulties if inhaled during manufacturing or processing. It's toxicity in cosmetics is unknown. calcium chloride, CaCl2, chemical compound that is crystalline, lumpy, or flaky, is usually white, and is very soluble in water. The anhydrous compound is hygroscopic; it rapidly absorbs water and is used to dry gases by passing them through it. Calcium chloride is commercially available usually as the dihydrate, CaCl2·2H2O; it is used to melt ice on roads, to control dust, in brines for refrigeration, and as a preservative in foods. It is also used in the monohydrate and hexahydrate forms. Calcium chloride is a byproduct of the Solvay process (a major source of the compound) and is present in natural brines. Candellia Wax A herbal wax. It is used in lipsticks, in creams and as a replacement for rubber. Capsicum oleoresin An oil from the pepper family that is used in hair tonics to arouse the scalp. It is said to upgrade hair growth. It may however cause allergic reactions in some people. Caramel A concentrated solution of heated sugar or glucose. It is used in cosmetics as a color, in skin lotions as a soothing agent. In 1981 the FDA ruled caramel generally recognized as safe. Carbomer 934,940,941,960,961 Used in many cosmetics and toothpastes as a thickener. It can cause eye irritation. Carmine Natural red color comes from the dried female cochineal beetle. It is sometimes used to color lip gloss, lipsticks and other cosmetics. Carotenoids Develops in plants and in the bodies of plant-eating animals. They are precursors to vitamin A. CA 24 Used as an antimicrobial in shampoos and bath lotions at concentrations of up to .3%. Humans have had allergic reactions to a .1% water solution of it within 24, 48, or 72 hours of use. CA 24 contains 70% chloroacetamide and 30% sodium benzoate. Cellulose The fiber in the cell walls of all plants. Gum that is made from it is used as an emulsifier, stabilizer and binder in cosmetics. There is no known toxicity. Inhaling the powder during manufacturing or processing can be harmful to the lungs. Certified Colors A color "certified" by the FDA as safe. However, various colors (coal tar dyes) have been found to cause cancer. But, hair dyes are exempt from even this regulation. Cetearth-3 Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and lotion. Dries out the skin and causes numerous allergic reactions. Cetearyl alcohol May be natural or artificial. It's used in most lotions. A thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients. Cetyl alcohol Used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally as in coconut fatty alcohol or synthetically. Cetyl lactate, myristate, palmitate, and stearate Natural or synthetic compounds used as emollients and texturizers in cosmetics. Citric acid Used as a flavoring agent in foods and pharmaceuticals, and as preservative, acid, sequestrate. Foam-stabilizer and pH-adjuster in cosmetics. It is nontoxic. Cocoamide DEA, MEA, and MIPA See alkyloamides. Cocamidopropyl betaine Artificial substance frequently referred to as a natural substance made "from coconuts" on the labels of shampoos. It's a secondary surfactant, used in combination with other, stronger surfactants. Collagen 70% of the body's connective tissue in the dermis is made of collagen. Gerontologists have discovered that is where the aging process of the skin takes place. Young connective tissue is made up of soluble collagen whose molecules are disordered in relation to each other. As the skin ages, and is exposed to sunlight, chemicals (like makeup. coal tar dyes, etc.) and various foods, the soluble collagen becomes "cross-linked," so the molecules are no longer displaced in relation to each other. Cross-linking makes the collagen insoluble and inflexible. As this happens, the connective and becomes strained, dry, wrinkled and worn. A preservative used in shampoos and deodorants. Contains formaldehyde and N-acetal. Highly toxic. Also listed as DMDM hydantoin. D&C This abbreviation preceding the name of a color, means that the FDA has certified it as safe for use in drugs and cosmetics, but not in food. D&C means that the color can only be used externally, and not around the eyes or inside the mouth. D&C colors are usually man-made. Deodorant A product that reduces perspiration odor. There are natural deodorants containing herbs like marigold and vitamin E. Deodorants do not stop perspiration. Depilatories Destroy hair by breaking the chemical bonds that hold it together. After using any hair removal method, a moisturizer should be applied to soothe the skin. Detergent These artificial soaps may be made with a variety of chemicals, and are frequently not biodegradable. Diethanolamine More commonly known by its abbreviation, DEA. One of many artificial detergents. It may be contaminated with nitrosamines and should be avoided. Dimethicone Gives a smooth feel to a cosmetic cream or lotion. Various allergic reactions and internal problems make them questionable as cosmetic ingredients. Although they're still widely used, they should be avoided. Many herbal oils, such as vegetable glycerin, can easily replace this chemical. DMDM hydantoin See Dantoin 685. Drug According to the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (as amended), a drug is: a. articles recognized in the United States Pharmacopoeia, the official National Formulary, or any supplement to any of them An artificial chemical that's used as an antioxidant and as a "complexing" agent in shampoos-which means that it binds metallic irons so that the surfactants can work more effectively. Emollients Prevent water loss, and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil. Essential Fatty Acids Sometimes known as vitamin F, these substances can't be manufactured by the body and must be consumed in the diet. There are three types-linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic. Essential oils Oily liquids obtained from plants. Complex mixtures of alcohols, ketones, phenols, acids, ethers, aldehydes, esters, oxides and sulfur compounds (among others). They're also called volatile oils, ethereal oils, essences or absolutes. Ethanol (or ethyl alcohol) Colorless, vaporizable liquid. Has a burning taste. Well-known to most of us as the active ingredient in alcoholic beverages. Commonly called simply "alcohol," although there are many other kinds of alcohols. Ethanol is widely used in cosmetics as a solvent and as an antibacterial agent. As a preservative, it's effective at concentrations of 15% to 20%. It's a antitoxin in concentrations of 60% to 70%, with a bactericidal effect within 45 seconds. It's also used in acne treatments and in rinses for oily hair. Ethanol absorbs water and thus can be very drying in fast-drying skin lotions (at concentrations of 15%); the lotions need to include glycerols and vegetable oils to minimize the drying effect. Ethanol is often purposely made poisonous by the addition of methanol and it is then known as SDA (specially denatured alcohol). TOP Compound made from acetic acid and ethyl alcohol used as a solvent and in nail polish and nail polish removers. May irritate skin. Ext. D&C When followed by a color, means that the FDA has certified it as safe for use only in drugs and in cosmetics used externally and not around the eyes or inside the mouth. It is not safe for foods. Acquired from animal fat, oil seeds or fruit pulp. They are used as lotion or salve in cosmetics. They can be solid, semisolid, or liquid. Fatty acids Organic oils found in vegetable and animal fats. Excellent skin emollients and an important part of the diet. Fatty alcohols Thick to semi-thick syrup-like liquids. Give high emolliency. Can be natural or man-made. Sometimes used in hair and skin-conditioners. creams, lotions, and conditioning shampoos. FDA The Food and Drug Administration. The federal agency responsible for managing the safety and strength of all foods and drugs, and cosmetics sold in the US. FD&C When preceded by the name of a color, the Food and Drug Administration has certified the coloring safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics. Fluoride Fluoride is toxic. It is however used in toothpaste as an antienzyme ingredient to slow down tooth decay. They are added to the water supply in some states and sites. Formaldehyde Colorless, harsh, irritating substance that is found in many preservatives. It is severely toxic when inhaled or swallowed. 44% of all people whose skin is exposed to it get an irritating reaction. Fruit acids Found in various fruits and herbs. They are used in masks and moisturizers for their ability to moisturize and exfoliate the skin. Fruit acids are used in concentrations as low as .25% and as high as 8%. The higher concentrations increase the "heat" of the product and the peeling action. It can also cause skin irritation in some people. A fatty acid. Found in evening primrose oil, black currant seeds, borage oil and mother's milk. Gelatine Refined protein from animal origin. Used as a thickener and film-forming agent. Glycereth A polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin is a artificial form of glycerin. Glycerin, Glycerine, Glycerol Sweet, syrupy alcohol that can be produced artificially from propylene alcohol or naturally derived from vegetable oils. Used in cosmetics for thousands of years as a solvent, plasticizer, humectant, emollient, and lubricant. Glyceryl coconate, dilaurate, erucate, hydroxystearate, monostearate, myristate, oleate, ricinoleate, sesquioleate, stearate, trimyristate, etc. Largely artificial chemicals with a drop or two of some natural fatty acid . Used as a texturizer in pasta products and as a opacifying agent in shampoos, lotions and creams. Glycolic acid Used as a skin care treatment in exfoliation creams and masks. It may irritate mucous membranes and cause allergic reactions. Gums Polysaccharides of high molecular weight that are scattered in water. They are incomparable to manufactured polymers like the PVP/PVA copolymers. Some of the gums used as hair setting products. Natural thickeners are acacia, tragacanth, quince seed and locust bean. Particularly used in medicine, cosmetics, or foods. A plant without woody tissue that withers and dies after flowering. Homosalate Artificial chemical that is used to replace the phenolic compounds that are used in sunscreens. Humectant Used to retain moisture. Using a natural humectant in a cosmetic product helps speed moiturization to the skin. Hydrate As a noun, this means a compound formed by the union of water with another substance. As a verb, it means to supply water to something that absorbs it. Hydrocortisone A hormone from the adrenal gland. Synthesized for medical use, particularly for application to inflamed skin. It can adversely affect the skin by damaging the collagen of the connective tissues. Hydrolyzed Animal Protein Appears in many shampoos. Improves hair, repairs spilt ends and gives luster to the hair. Hydrophilic Cosmetic ingredient that will attract moisture to the skin. Hydroxyethylcellulose Artificial polymer is used as an emulsifier and plasticizer. Commonly used cosmetic preservative. Can cause contact dermatitis. In Vitro Experiments carried out in an artificial environment, outside of living organisms. In Vivo Within a living organisms, as opposed to in vitro. Iodine Nonmetallic element. Occurs in seawater and in plants and animals that grow in the sea. When applied topically, it has antiseptic benefits. Iron oxides Compounds of iron that are used as colorings in some cosmetics. Also known as jewelers' rouge, or rust. Isopropyl Alcohol Artificial fatty alcohol. Used as an antiseptic, a solvent, a rubbing alcohol and as a source for acetone. Isopropyl Lanolate, Laurate, Oleate, Palmitate, stearate and Isostearate These esters of isopropyl alcohol and various fatty acids. Isopropyl Myristate This synthetic chemical, and to reduce the greasy feel caused by the high oil content of other ingredients. A sun care lotion which protects from UV sun rays. Used in manufacturing high-grade porcelain, paper, paint, cloth, soaps and many powdered and covering cosmetics. It's also used for it's dehydrating and astringent effect. It's known as China Clay. Keratin This insoluble albumoid (fiber protein) can be found in horny tissues like the hair and nails. High in sulfur, it's quite strong, but it is subject to chemical penetration. Ketones These odorous substances, used in nail polish removers, are toxic. The Cosmetic Labeling Act ( Fair packaging and labeling act ) marked a major step in helping consumers become aware of what they put into their hair and rub onto their faces. Passed April 14, 1977, it requires that ingredients be listed, in descending order of concentration, on the labels of most cosmetics. Soap, however, excluded, and flavors, fragrances and trade secrets don't have to be listed specifically. Lactic acid Naturally occurs in products made by bacterial fermentation. Produces pH levels like those of the hair and skin. It also helps moistures the skin naturally. Lake Colors These solid forms of dyes are made by mixing liquid dye with an insoluble powder like aluminum oxide. They may be natural, but they're usually manufactured and are made from coal tar. Lanolin This yellow, semisolid, fatty discharge from sheep's wool is used as an emulsifier, a base and an ointment. There have been some reports of allergic reactions. Lauramide DEA This white, waxy, nonionic, artificial chemical is used in shampoos, bubble baths and detergents as a surfactant and foam-builder. It may be mildly irritating to the skin. Lauryl alcohol This fatty alcohol, often derived from coconut oil, is used to make anionic surfactants. It may be natural or man-made. Lecithin Used as an emulsifier and surfactant. High in the B vitamins choline and inositol. It's found in egg yolk and manufactured from soy oil. Linoleic acid Essential fatty acid, found in cold pressed oils, used as an emulsifier in cosmetics. Lipids These materials are soluble in alcohol (and other solvents) but not in water. Include fatty acids, fats, waxes, fixed oils, phosphatides, cerebrosides and sometimes steroids and carotenoids. Along with proteins and carbohydrates, lipids constitute the structure of cells. When used on the skin, they have a moisturizing and cream action. Liposomes Microscopic sacs obtained from natural or synthetic sources. Because these can easily penetrate the skin, in lotions and creams liposomes are used to deliver substances, contained within the sac, to internal skin layers. Flaky white solid. Used as an filler, and thickener in cosmetics. Especially used in antiperspirants, creams, and shaving creams. Magnesium stearate Used as a filler in cosmetics. MEA Monoethanolamine, see alkyloamides. Menthol Derived from peppermint. Has soothing properties if used in concentrations of 1% or less. Methyl acetate Artificial chemical used as an aromatic and solvent. It can cause dryness. Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) Flammable, colorless liquid. Primarily used as a solvent. Skin irritant. Mica Somewhat shiny silicate minerals. Split into very thin sheets. Used in eye cosmetics to provide sparkle. Mineral oil A liquid mixture of hydrocarbons gathered from petroleum. Moisturizer When externally used on the hair or skin raises the moisture content. Monoethanolamine Liquid amino alcohol that is used as an humectant and emulsifier in cosmetics. Highly flammable. Can dissolve many plastics. It can be fatal if swallowed. The conditioning ingredients do little to mitigate acetone's strongly drying and degreasing effects. Nitrocellulose Flammable man-made substance. Used as an emulsifier and protective film in cosmetics, especially nail polish. Nitrosamines Carcinogenic compounds formed from secondary amines (nitosating agents) and nitrous acid. Typical nitrosating agents used in cosmetic formulations are DEA, MEA, and TEA. Fatty acid that is a common constituent of many animals and vegetables. It is a common cosmetic ingredient. Oleth-2 through Oleth-50 These polyethylene glycol ethers of oleic alcohol are used as surfactants. Oleyl alcohol Fatty alcohol. Oily, unsaturated liquid found in fish oils. Is used to make surface-active agents. Oxybenzone Sunscreening agent derived from isopropanol. Ozokerite Naturally occuring waxlike mineral. An emulsifier and thickening agent used in lipstick and cream rouge. Used in baby oils, bath oils, eye creams, hair conditioners, and moisturizers. It can cause allergic reactions in some people. Palm oil White to yellowish fat. Used to make soaps, shampoos, ointments, and margarine. Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) Found in Vitamin B complex. Used in sunscreen formulations and as an anesthetic in sunburn products. Can cause allergic reactions. Parabens Toxic. Allergenic. Artificial chemicals. Used to preserve cosmetics. They are not effective with shampoos or with products that contain proteins. Paraffin Waxy, crystalline mixture. Used as a thickener for cosmetics. Patch test Apply a small amount of cosmetic to your inner arm, cover it with a bandage and leave it for 24 hours, if you are concerned with allergic reactions. Pectin PEG compounds Artificial. Used as solvents, bases, carriers, emulsifiers and dispersants. Peptides Natural or artificial. Composed of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. When peptide bonds in the hair are broken, the result is damaged hair. Petroleum jelly Semisolid mixture. Obtained from petroleum. PHBs These are preservatives widely used in many cosmetics and shampoo. Another name is paraben. Phosphoric acid Clear. Viscous liquid. Use in cosmetics as an antioxidant, sequestrant and acidifier. Phytocosmetic A cosmetic made mainly from vegetable sources. Placenta An organ present in all mammals except marsupials and monotremes, unites the fetus to the mother and is expelled at birth. Bovine placenta liquid, obtained from cows is used in some cosmetics as a moisturizer. Polymers, polymeric, polymerization Used in cosmetics to keep sunscreens from washing off, in hair-setting products, and as binders in skin creams. Plastic fingernails are also produced by polymerization. Polysorbates Fatty acid esters. Used in many cosmetics as emulsifiers. Polysorbates are assigned different numerical values according to their formulas and whether they're intended to be used in foods or cosmetics. Polyvinylpyrrolidone Commonly known as PVP. Used in hairspray and other cosmetics. Inhaled particles may cause problems in the lungs of sensitive people. Propylene Glycol One of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics. Most common moisture carrying vehicle other than water. Permeates skin better than glycerin, but causes more sensitivity reactions. Psoriasis A disease of the skin. Marked by crusty patches. They can be large or small and can cover the entire body, including the scalp. Believed to be hereditary. Result of a rapid abnormal growth of skin tissue. Is not curable. Can be controlled by using UV light. UV light slows down the reproduction of skin cells. Used as water repellents, fungicides, emulsifiers, paper and fabric softeners, antistatic agents and corrosion inhibitors. Their use in cosmetics, especially in hair conditioners and creme rinses, came from the paper and fabric industries. Quaternium-15 Toxic chemical. More effective against bacteria than against molds and yeast. A derivative of Vitamin A. The active ingredient in aspirin. Used in cosmetics as an antiseptic and preservative. Saturated fats A fat. Usually of animal origin. Fatty acid chains can't accommodate any more hydrogen atoms become saturated. Sebaceous glands Glands in the skin that open into hair follicles and from which sebum is secreted. Sodium alginate Natural compound. Mostly used as a thickener and emulsifier in foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Sodium ascorbate Used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and preservative. Sodium bisulphite Artificial chemical that is used as a hair relaxer and a preservative. Sodium borate Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, preservative and detergent builder. Sodium carbonate Used in cosmetics as a humectant and an alkalizer. Sodium citrate Crystalline salt. Used in cosmetics as a sequestrant and an alkalizer, and in foods as a buffering agent. Sodium lauryl sulfate Very popular ingredient. Used as a detergent, emulsifier and surfactant in over a thousand cosmetic products. This includes shampoos, toothpaste, lotions, and creams. Sodium thioglycolate A chemical used in permanents as a hair relaxer. Is a primary irritant. Soybean oil Pale yellow oil. Consists of mostly glycerides of linoleic, oleic, linolenic and plamitic acids. Used in cosmetics as an emollient. Stearalkonium chloride Used almost universally in hair conditioners. It was originally developed by the textile industry for use as a fabric softener. It also has antistatic properties. Steareth-2,-4,-7,-10,-20,-30 Used as lotions and emulsifiers. Stearic acid Waxy. Crystalline. Fatty acid. Found in cocoa butter and other vegetable fats. It is mainly from tallow and other animal fats. Sulfate Artificial liquid. Made with sulfated oils. Used to make manufactured soaps and detergents. Harmful to marine life and the environment. Trietholanolamine. Used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, an emulsifier, a preservative, and in soap formulations. May be harmful when contaminated by nitrosamines. Tea tree oil Derived from the tree Melaleuca alternifolia. Used as an antiseptic and germicide. Also used for insect bites, skin problems, as a dentifrice, and mouthwash. Cosmetic applications are often dandruff shampoos, face masks, and topical creams. TEA-lauryl sulfate Very popular shampoo ingredient. Used as synthetic detergent. A combination of triethanolamine and the salt of lauryl sulfuric acid. Thioglycolates Compounds capable of breaking down the protein bonds in hair. Used in permanent waves and depilatory agents. Toxic in small doses and can damage hair and skin. Titanium dioxide White powder. Used as a pigment in eye makeup, sunscreens, and foundation makeup. It is also used as an opacifying agent, for its covering power, brilliance and reflectivity. Toluene Used s a solvent in cosmetics, especially nail polish, and also dyes. It is used in pharmaceuticals and gasoline as a blending agent. It is toxic and narcotic in high concentrations. Tragacanth Herbal gum. Used as a thickener in cosmetics and in hair care products as a hairspray or setting-lotion ingredient. Triclosan An antibacterial agent used in deodorant and deodorant soaps. Absorption through skin may cause liver damage. Found in urine and other body fluids. Used medicinally as a diuretic and in cosmetics. Can cause an allergic reaction to those allergic to ammonia, and is an eye irritant. Fat-soluble vitamin. Helps remedy rough and dry skin and has been used in the treatment of psoriasis. It has been used as a topical acne treatment. Some people are allergic to it. It has been used to treat aging skin. It can be obtained from fish liver oil, liver, carrots, green and yellow vegetables, eggs, milk, and dairy products, margarine and yellow fruits. It prevents vitamin C from being oxidized too quickly in the body. Normal dosages are harmless. Vitamin C Can preserve cosmetics both in the water phase and in its fat-soluble form. It plays an important role in building collagen, the connective tissue that holds us together. Vitamin D Fat-soluble vitamin essential for healthy bones, teeth , and the absorption of calcium. The body can produce its own vitamin D from sun exposure. Vitamin E One of the most compelling natural, fat-soluble antioxidants in use- particularly when combined with vitamin C and vitamin A. Oil from the embryo of the wheat kernel that is high in vitamin E. Used as a moisturizer in cosmetics. White powder used in skin ointments for ultraviolet protection and diaper rash treatment. Also used for its skin cleansing properties. 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